We gathered at Turin airport Arrivals as Steve, one of our fellow travellers, had decided to fly on Air France on the new Super Jumbo via Paris.
As we got outside we found it cool, overcast and drizzly. But apart from this we were incredibly lucky. The weather cleared and the only time there was any rain it was unimportant.
The following day brought us a walking tour around Turin including a visit to the Cathedral for a viewing of the famous Shroud which is only on display once a decade. We spent the afternoon at the Royal Residence of Venaria which has only just been restored and opened for visitors. It is breathtaking with magnificent views of the Alps. The evening was spent at the Teatro Regio Turin for the opening night of the opera season and Verdi’s early opera “Luisa Miller”. Everyone concurred that it has been an exceptional day.
Next morning we set off for the Lange region which is one of Italy’s premier wine growing districts. Here we stopped at an estate for a tour by the owner and a tasting of some really exceptional wines (purchases were made to bring back to share with friends and family in SA!) We then travelled on to Roddi and the gourmet restaurant La Crota for a delicious lunch with more wine. After lunch we drove through to one of the little hilltop villages and a visit to a Middle Ages Fort – quite different from the opulent palaces of the nobility. All the more interesting because of it!
We headed for Lake Como by bus and overnight.
We stayed at Cernobbio on Lake Como for two reasons: the first being there was a huge trade fair happening in Milan and accommodation was at a premium. And secondly it is only an hour by road from Milan and is a stunning part of the world in its own right.
The morning was free so I suggested crossing the lake by ferry to explore the village of Como. The weather was hotting up so Gelato and Espressos were consumed in numbers! Here we had some time for shopping and a light supper before the highlight of the trip. Placido Domingo had announced earlier in the year before he retires he wanted to sing the title role in Verdi’s Simon Boccanegra. This is a stupendous Baritone role and is a huge acting and singing challenge. We had heard just prior to leaving that he had undergone surgery for a malignant polyp in his bowel and there was no certainty that he would sing.
There was an air of anxious anticipation at La Scala before the curtain went up. The opera starts with a prologue and when Domingo made his entrance La Scala erupted.
The performance (with Daniel Barenboim conducting and featuring Anja Harteros) was absolutely outstanding.
The hour’s drive back to Como passed in a flash as we replayed the evening in our minds.
In the morning we drove through to Busetto to visit the Verdi sites – his farm, the Villa Verdi and where he stayed in town at his father-in-law’s home after the death of his first wife and children.
Lunch was a very welcome return to the famous tenor Carlo Bergonzi’s “Il Due Foscari” in the town. I have yet to be disappointed at this gourmet hideaway.
After lunch we drove through to Modena – and were greeted with the news about the Icelandic volcano. (It brought back memories of driving a Land Rover across the ice desert at the heart of Iceland from Akureyri to Reykjavik some years back).
Having extensive experience helps. European airports were closed and so the first priority was to secure extended accommodation at our hotel. And then keep in touch with Jo (busy doing what she could to assist her end) and the local tour operator on progress.
The morning brought us a walking tour of Modena and in the afternoon visits to the Pavarotti sites like his Mausoleum. In the evening we walked the short distance to the opera house, the Teatro Pavarotti, for Puccini’s “Manon Lescaut”. Here we had seats in boxes that not only gave great views of the stage but allowed us to watch the conductor in action. Another great performance with a drop-dead gorgeous leading lady!
The following two days were free so I suggested a visit to the Ferrari Museum at Marinello. What a showcase!
The final day was spent exploring churches and museums including a fascinating library with illuminated manuscripts and the like.
The last morning dawned warm, bright and clear. I had arranged a very early departure to the airport at Turin to ensure an early check-in for our seats on the flights.
The transfer took about three hours but got us to the airport well in time. Here we found that Paris had opened their airport. We got Steve the last available ticket back to Johannesburg via Paris. After he left we settled in for a long wait and were right at the front of the queue for the Iberia flight.
After I returned I heard horrendous stories of people stranded in Italy for an extra week. And others from elsewhere only due back mid-May.
Experience does count!
