RUNNING NOT MARCHING TO THE SAINTS!

Usually travel articles describing visits to St Helena and Ascension Islands regale potential visitors more with the details of on-board ship entertainments (quiz evenings, cricket, braai’s etc) than actual information about these amazing islands.

St Helena is a fascinating, remote and rocky (previously volcanic) island 122 sq kms in size consisting mainly of high ground with several peaks rising above 800 m. Because it is smack in the middle of the Atlantic, nearly 2000 kms from the African coastline (and only 16 degrees south of the equator), much of its interior is lush with forests and leafy canyons.

The RMS St Helena, which sails from Cape Town and Walvis Bay, anchors offshore from the only major town, Jamestown, built in the neck of a kloof with steep sided rocky walls. To land visitors pay a ₤12 landing fee, (valid for 30 days); negotiate the gangway to a pontoon and then a launch to go ashore. For those less athletic the exercise can be done via a ‘cage’ – à la mail sacks – hoisted by crane to and from the ship and then the shore.

I arrived on a sleepy Sunday morning – most days on St Helena are ‘sleepy’ – and since the only restaurant available would not open until lunchtime, and shops were closed, I set out to explore . . . I set about my first challenge which was to conquer the much vaunted ‘Jacobs Ladder’ with its 699 steps. It was designed 180 years ago to haul manure up and send goods down from the plateau above the town on a rail track long since removed. This innocuous sounding construct will bring all but the super-robust to their knees. The world record for ascent is under 5 minutes. This speed was proved the following day as several marathons were taking place - the ship importing many runners including the international winner Stefan Schlett.

Sensing quickly that I wouldn’t be challenging this, I heroically made my way to the top, masking my tardy progress with strategic stops for photographic opportunities. It is worth every step as the views are magnificent as I steadily gained the 200m above the town; and the views from Ladder Hill Fort at the top; not the least were the extra kilos I shed in the climb.

I found the whole atmosphere of the island enchanting. The myriads of views around the island portray a landscape reminiscent of parts of the Lake District, Ireland and Scotland and include vistas such as the spectacular Lot’s Pillar and the Asses Ears - towering dormant volcanic pipes standing starkly against the back-drop of the Atlantic. Another common scene is that of endemic trees valiantly defending themselves against encroaching flax and ginger plants. Determined efforts by local George Benjamin to re-introduce the indigenous flora are well underway and he has an Arboretum named after him. Flax was introduced to supply a contract to the British Post Office for string. Suddenly a
faceless bureaucrat in Whitehall decided that plastic twine was cheaper and that was the end of the contract. Not so for the flax plants on St Helena which continue to proliferate heedless of the lapsed business deal.

Outside of Jamestown, settlement is thinly spread with the odd local store stocked largely
with familiar South African goods at a predictably premium price, The native ‘Saints’(as St Helenians are known) are an exceptionally friendly lot where it is common courtesy for them to greet strangers in Jamestown’s main street - home to the only post office, the only bank and only hotel. The fact that crime is almost unheard of amongst these peaceable people is another huge plus. However, this untouched little paradise is about to experience ‘Western progress’ shortly - to be exact, in about 4 years time when do-gooders and developers have their way (and under the guise of lifting the dormant economy) will build an international airport - with all the standard trimmings of a 5 star hotel. It maybe then that the serenity of the 20 odd ‘post box walks’ will be lost - these hikes culminate at the highest point by a ‘post-box’ with an ink stamp to frank one’s Hiking Passport.

While the first call for most is to visit the two houses where Napoleon lived, Briars Pavilion and Longwood there is so much more to this little island. History buffs will learn that aside from Napoleon, 6000 Boers prisoners were once camped on an extremely windy Deadwood Plain, as I can testify, while out spotting the endemic Wirebird. The remains of their camp, cemetery and General Cronje’s house can also be seen while on one of the tours, perhaps in an open 1930’s charabanc.

St Helena also boasts one of the rarest and perhaps most expensive indigenous coffees in the world - as well as the local firewater called Tungi packaged in an evocative bottle shaped like Jacob’s Ladder.

There are of course all the outdoor pursuits any fresh-air lover could want - twitching, dolphin spotting, fishing, scuba and snorkelling and just the sheer charm of this untouched pearl . . .Perhaps the best way ‘to do’ St Helena is to hire a cottage for several months and let the island’s vibes soak in. . . What a magic enchantment St Helena cast on me.

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